Principal Characters

Principal Characters

Saturday 14 July 2018

Day 11, Bad Abbach to Regensburg

The night's sleep was constantly interrupted by the whining buzz of a mosquito around my head. I eventually threw off the covers (it was very hot again) and implored it to feast away somewhere else and leave me in peace.  When I eventually awoke in the morning I was unbitten so it's mission was clearly just to irritate me!  After a strident morning welcome from our effusive hostess, we breakfasted, loaded up and hit the road.  It was Saturday and there were hundreds of bikes along this stretch.  It was a short flat leg along smooth roads and a short stretch of gravel track to get us to Regensburg in a mere 70 minutes in full sun.  We planned to have some time sight-seeing in this, one of Europe's best preserved medieval cities so headed for the first coffee shop we saw, had coffee and cake, got changed in their toilets, had another coffee then set off to check in to the hostel as thunder rolled overhead and rain started to fall. We have, not a dorm, but a private apartment c/w bean-to-cup machine, washing machine, cooker, all of which is to remain unused.  But, to Anne's chagrin, no hairdryer!  So then what did we do?  We went shoe shopping!!  Anne's idea ; she bought sparkly sandals, but I have to admit that I bought a pair of ultra-lightweight Eccos that will now become my default cycle touring evening shoes. I now need a shoe/clothing bank to donate my old trainers!  Following this we trawled around the town taking in the sights including the ancient stone bridge that first facilitated trade in these parts, and the rather gloomy cathedral whose lighting wasn't enhanced by the fact that every single window was stained glass. Then we dived back to the room for a beer. After a shower we headed out again to check out the bits we'd missed, including the church at the Kloster Sankt Emmeram with the most amazingly intricately decorated interior including superb ceiling frescos. Food then beckoned before bed. And here's another thing: we've finally given up looking for a table where the next table's occupants aren't smoking.  A bit like Scottish west coast weather where it's either raining or just about to rain, here, folk sitting outside are either smoking, or just about to smoke. We are beginning to think that everyone smokes in Germany!  And it's way too hot to eat inside. 


13 miles at 11.1 mph avg.  1 hr 20 mins pedalling to ascend a momentous 20m!













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