The bells, the bells! They rang out with gusto for 5 minutes bringing me out of a deep sleep at 05:30!!! As if that wasn't enough, the church clock chimed every quarter of an hour thereafter. We dragged ourselves to breakfast only to find that the early risers had nabbed all the good bread rolls and they hadn't been replaced (well, they were as we left the breakfast room). At least in Germany even the bad bread rolls are fine enough. We hit the road with over-jerseys and gilets on as it was a cloudy and fresh morning. We hardly got 3 miles before stopping to progressively delayer as it warmed up! It was a straightforward run to Passau planned to be short to allow time for sightseeing and was again on fast mixed surfaces. Passau was entered by way of an enormous low level hydro dam which we stopped to photograph from all angles, happily with no security consequences. Our 4* hotel (perhaps the fanciest of the trip) was on the waterfront where all the river cruise ships berth, so we had to slalom our way along to our destination past all of the disgorged tourists. By now it was getting pretty hot. After a change and luggage dump we climbed the steps to the fortress that overlooks the city. A bowl of salad each satisfied Anne, but as it was the most useless salad bowl I've had in Germany (6 lettuce leaves, half a vine tomato, a slice of cucumber and a tiny bit of pepper) I felt as if I'd had nothing! And my requested grosse pils was only a kleine pils "because pils only comes in bottles of 330ml". "So why didn't you tell me when I ordered it ya' daftie!", I thought but didn't say. A walk around the beautiful old town followed and included a break for a plate of cheap and cheerful man-food, and a grosse bier. The cathedral is exquisite inside, and has Europe's biggest organ, apparently. We returned to properly check in and after a shower, unpack and chill out, we went round the corner for a pasta. So, here's another beer conundrum: when they sell pils at the Italian restaurant 'vom fass' i.e. from tap/font, why can't I get a 0.5 litre? There is at least some logic to the volume constraint when bottle-served, but when on tap what is to stop them pouring into a half litre glass? Some countries have some funny customs. And don't get me started on the amount of head in the glass! With darkening skies we dashed back to the hotel, ordered coffee on the patio, sat back for some more passive smoking and watched the developing thunderstorm. Hope it's clear by tomorrow - it's a longer day with 2 river crossing ferries.
13.4 miles at 11.0 mph avg. 1 hour 13 mins to ascend 56 m
Michelin starred it ain't!
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